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The Backstory

Environmental Issues

Pesticides on Cotton

Known for its softness and comfort, cotton is grown on over 90 million acres in more than 80 countries worldwide. Although pesticide use on cotton has decreased markedly over the past few years, the crop still accounts for 18 percent of all pesticides used worldwide, according to 2005 data from Cotton, Inc.

The pesticides and fertilizers applied to cotton fields inevitably run off in groundwater, which supplies about 50 percent of drinking water in the U.S. Of the top 15 pesticides used on cotton crops, seven are considered "possible," "likely," "probable," or "known" human carcinogens by the U.S. Environmental Protection Agency. Cotton's chemical habit can have devastating consequences for wildlife, as well. At least 13 pesticides documented as causing die-offs in birds are currently registered for use on cotton.

Water Use on Cotton Crops

Cotton, even organic cotton, consumes enormous amounts of water, and diverting it from waterways for irrigation has caused near-drought conditions in some areas of the world. The most notable case has occurred on the Uzbekistan-Kazakhstan border, where unmitigated use of river water has shrunk the Aral Sea from the world's fourth-largest lake to its eighth largest.

Genetically Engineered Cotton

Over half of all U.S. cotton is currently grown from seeds that are genetically engineered (GE), either to resist bacteria or to withstand heavy doses of weed killers (or in some cases, to do both). GE plants reduce biodiversity, and they've not been sufficiently tested to ensure they pose no danger to the environment, wildlife, or human health.

Polyester, the Petrochemical Fiber

The basic building block of polyester is petroleum, and in fact, polyester is essentially a plastic made from the same materials as disposable soda and water bottles. In addition to being derived from a non-renewable resource, polyester's production involves hazardous chemicals such as antimony. Infants of female factory workers exposed to antimony have suffered from higher rates of miscarriage, premature birth and stunted growth, and breathing antimony has caused lung cancer in some animal studies. Polyester production also releases lung-damaging pollutants such as nitrogen and sulfur oxides, particulates, carbon monoxide and heavy metals into the air, as well as globe-warming carbon dioxide.

Chemically Produced Bamboo

Bamboo is a relatively eco-friendly crop--pest-resistant, wild-growing and rapidly renewable. But to keep up with increasing demand for bamboo products, farmers have started raising it on plantations as a monocrop, which leads to a reduction in biodiversity and an increase in pesticide use. Furthermore, the process of turning stalk into the soft fiber we like in our sheets is similar to the viscose process used on rayon, which involves sodium hydroxide and carbon disulfide, which are caustic substances.

Despite its environmental shortcomings, however, bamboo still has a much lighter environmental impact than pesticide-laden conventional cotton and petroleum-derived polyester.

Personal Health Issues

Formaldehyde in Fabric Finishes

Bed sheets with wrinkle- or stain-resistant finishes contain formaldehyde, a probable carcinogen. Since formaldehyde becomes a gas at room temperature, new or unwashed treated fabrics can release formaldehyde fumes into the air, which may cause flu-like symptoms such as watery eyes, runny nose, throat irritation, headache, fatigue and respiratory problems in sensitive individuals.

Although washing reduces these fumes, it does not entirely eliminate them. A 1999 study published in Environmental Science and Technology found that a single washing of permanent press fabrics reduced formaldehyde emissions by 60 percent. Repeated washings will remove more of the formaldehyde, but not completely. For that reason, it's best to avoid treated fabrics when possible. Also avoid ironing them, as heat may release formaldehyde into the air.

Chemical Dyes

Most fabrics are bleached white with chlorine before they are dyed another color. Chemical dyes frequently include heavy metals such as chromium, copper and zinc, and sometimes contain known or suspected carcinogens. During the dyeing process, at least half of the chemicals used end up as waste in rivers and soil.